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Tips
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Pine Needles will supply you with tips from time to
time. Some will be from me - Joan (the owner) and some will be from information I receive from e-mails, articles in
magazines, etc.
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A KNITTING DAILY SUGGESTION
Gauge and Yarn Substitution I've been reading a lot about gauge lately because I want to knit something
on my knitting machine, and gauge is different on the machine than it is on the needles. I came upon this great information
in an unexpected resource: one of our new spinning eBooks. Rita Buchanan is a master spinner and teacher, so it's no surprise
she has some good hints about gauge.
Here's part of her gauge article. To see the entire piece, check out A Closer Look, the new eBook by Rita Buchanan.
| | This shows what happens when you knit thinner and thicker yarns on the same size needles. Both yarns produce the
same number of stitches per inch, or nearly so. The thin yarn makes slightly more rows per inch. In this swatch, knitted on
size 7 needles, the orange (top) yarn, a handspun 3-ply, measures about 16 wraps per inch (which is lace weight). The teal
(bottom) yarn is a 2-ply that measures about 8 wraps per inch (Aran weight). Both yarns knit up at a gauge of 4 1/2 stitches
per inch. The section knitted from the thicker teal yarn has 6 rows per inch, while the orange section has 7 rows per inch. | 
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Handling a Knitted Fabric and Responding to How it Feels
by Rita Buchanan
We're continually reminded of the importance
of gauge. Virtually every published pattern specifies a required number of stitches per inch (some patterns also note rows
per inch) and the directions always emphasize that you must match the specified gauge or your project will turn out too big
or too small.
Although gauge certainly matters a lot, it's not the whole story. Here is a fundamental issue in
knitting that is rarely acknowledged or discussed: two knitted fabrics can have the same or similar gauge yet feel very different.
Pattern writers rarely talk about how a fabric should feel, because they don't have to. Instead, they tell you
what yarn to use. If you knit with the particular yarn that they recommend and match the specified gauge, the fabric will
feel right for the project.
However, when you vary from the directions by substituting another yarn, the matter
of feel becomes important. You must apply some judgment—and some swatching—to make sure the substitute yarn yields
appropriate results.
With a substitute yarn, it's not enough to match the specified gauge. You must also produce
a fabric that feels right for the kind of project you're making. A dressy sweater, for instance, must feel different from
work socks, even though both can be worked at a gauge of 5 stitches per inch. Fabric that feels substantial enough for work
socks is too bulky and unyielding for a sweater, while a supple, drapey fabric you'd love in a dressy sweater won't hold up
for work socks.
Knitting the Swatch
Using the needle size recommended in the pattern, knit a swatch at least 4 by 4 inches. Then
count the stitches per inch and compare to the specified gauge. If you don't match the gauge, you can unravel the swatch and
reuse the same yarn to knit further swatches on larger or smaller needles. Changing needle size usually allows you to get
close to, if not match, the right number of stitches per inch. So far, so good, but you're not done yet.
The pattern
may or may not specify a row gauge, or number of rows per inch. If so, you have to match that also. Figure the rows per inch
in your sample swatch(es); also figure stitches per inch. Again, changing needle sizes can help you reach the goal, although
a yarn that is much thinner or thicker than the recommended yarn will cause problems; you won't be able to match either the
stitch or the row gauge, no matter what size needles you use.
In the most basic terms, if you can get the right number of stitches per inch but have too many rows per inch, your
yarn is too thin. If you can get the right number of stitches per inch but have too few rows per inch, your
yarn is too thick. 
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| Feeling two yarns in
one swatch reveals differences that are meaningful but hard to measure. The thicker teal yarn makes fabric that is bulkier,
denser, more stable, and less stretchy than the thinner orange yarn. | | | |
Evaluating Your Swatch
When you have the gauge right, now comes the judgment hour. Stroke, squeeze, and tug your swatch. There are many qualities
to react to while swatching. Here are some things to consider: Thickness. Rub the swatch between your thumb and fingers. Is it thin as a bed sheet, thick as a blanket, or in between?
Density. Hold the swatch up to a light. Is it see-through, like netting or lace;
nearly opaque, like felt; or in between?
Firmness. Pinch and squeeze the swatch.
Does it feel firm, like pinching a magazine; squishy, like squeezing a pillow or a stack of tissues; or in between?
Weight. This is hard to detect in a swatch, but very noticeable in a finished project such as
a vest or sweater. A thick, dense fabric weighs more than a thin, open fabric worked at the same gauge.
Shape retention. Hold the swatch by one edge or corner and tug at it, pulling in all directions. A thin, open fabric
is stretchy and usually drapes gracefully but may droop or sag out of shape. A thick, dense fabric resists stretching and
holds its shape resolutely; it can almost stand up by itself and may bend but doesn't drape. Is your fabric suitable for the project you have in mind?
If so, hooray! You've found your yarn.
If you're getting gauge and you're not satisfied with your swatch, you might
need to try a different yarn, perhaps one with a different fiber content that gives you the drape or firmness that you want.
For example, you might get more drape if you use a yarn with some bamboo content, and more firmness if you use a cotton-blend
yarn.
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What do you know about yarn? Well yarn is made of a variety
of fibers from wool, mohair, silk, cashmere, angora, camel llama, alpaca, flax, bamboo, cotton, and linen are examples of
animal and vegetable fibers. There is also the synthetic fibers such as acrylic, nylon, polyester, metallics and microfibers.
Frequently fibers are blended to achieve the best results. Some of the characteristics of fibers are how it feels to
the touch or often referred to as the 'hand'. How much resilience it has....is it elastic...does it absorb moisture....is
it washable...does it felt... Fibers with a tight twist will
produce a strong yarn with good stitch definition. These yarns will resist pilling and will have a longer wearing life.
They work well for socks and sweaters for example. There
was a time in the history of yarns when they were referred to as having 'plys' - like 2-ply or 3-ply. Patterns used
this method to identify yarn. Yarn companies used this method to label yarn. However, that is a thing of the past.
We need more information now for how to choose a yarn. Patterns now will indicate if you need fingering (1-3 size needle),
sport (4-5 needles) ,d.k. (5-6 needle), worsted (7-9), chunky or bulky (10-13) etc. Don't make the mistake of looking at the weight when you buy yarn. Cotton for example weighs more per yard
than wool. Most label today give the yardage...that is what you look for not the weight. If you substitute a yarn from the one suggested in a pattern you need to decide
the characteristics of the original yarn, and then choose a substitute. The pattern might call for a wool, but you are
allergic to wool. You can substitute with alpaca if you still want the softness and warmth, or you can go to an acrylic,
which probably won't wear as well as wool nor will it provide the warmth you might want.
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Binding Off Tips from Knitting Daily At some point, all knitting must come to an end and the stitches must be removed from the
needles. This can occur at the end of a project when all of the stitches are bound off, or along shaped edges, such as armholes
and necklines. Over the centuries, knitters have devised a number of ways to secure the final row of knitting, while producing
an edge that is elastic and flexible. Following
are several ways to bind off stitches, each with advantages. For best results, all bind-offs should be worked with even tension
to produce an elastic edge that will stretch with the knitted fabric below it. If worked too loosely, the edge will flair
and look sloppy. Worked too tightly, the edge will fray and eventually break, especially along edges that are subject to stretching
such as necklines. To prevent an overly tight bind-off, use a needle one (or more) sizes larger than the one used for the
body of the project. End each of these bind-off techniques by
cutting the yarn and pulling the tail through the last stitch. Standard Bind-Off
 This is the most common, and for many knitters, the only method for binding off. Use this method for edges that will
be sewn into seams or finished in some way (such as stitches being picked up and knitted). Slip 1 stitch, *knit 1 stitch,
insert left needle tip into first stitch on right needle (Step 1), pass this stitch over the second stitch (Step 2), and off
the needle—1 stitch remains on right needle and 1 stitch has been bound off (Step 3). Repeat from *. Suspended Bind-Off
 This method is similar to the standard bind-off but produces a more elastic edge. Use this method when you want to ensure
against a tight bind-off edge. Slip 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch, *insert left needle tip into first stitch on right needle
and lift the first st over the second (Step 1), leaving the first stitch on the left needle, knit the next stitch (Step 2),
then slip both stitches off the left needle—2 stitches remain on right needle and 1 stitch has been bound off (Step
3). Repeat from * until no stitches remain on left needle, then pass first st on right needle over the second. Invisible Ribbed Bind-Off
 This method produces a rounded edge that is extremely elastic. It follows the k1, p1 rib and is ideal for neckbands.
Work this bind-off with a tapestry needle. Cut the yarn three times the width of the knitting to be bound off, and thread
onto a tapestry needle. Working from right to left, insert tapestry needle purlwise (from right to left) through the first
(knit) stitch (Step 1) and pull the yarn through, bring the tapestry needle behind the knit stitch, insert it knitwise (from
left to right) into the second (purl) stitch (Step 2) and pull the yarn through, *use the tapestry needle to slip the first
knit stitch knitwise off the knitting needle, insert tapestry needle purlwise into the next knit stitch (Step 3) and pull
the yarn through, slip the first stitch purlwise off the knitting needle, then bring the tapestry needle behind the knit stitch,
insert it knitwise into the next purl stitch (Step 4), and pull the yarn through. Repeat from *. Sewn
Bind-Off
 This method, popularized by Elizabeth Zimmermann, forms an exceedingly elastic edge (so it's great for toe-up socks!)
that has a ropy appearance, much like a purl row. Work this bind-off with a tapestry needle. Cut the yarn three times
the width of the knitting to be bound off, and thread onto a tapestry needle. Working from right to left, *insert tapestry
needle purlwise (from right to left) through the first two stitches (Step 1) and pull the yarn through, bring the needle knitwise
(from left to right) through first stitch (Step 2), pull the yarn through, and slip this stitch off the knitting needle. Repeat
from *. Enter
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